I have to make two more ring sets for each projectile flat, but having a viable method takes all the angst away. I really was concerned about this aspect of the build. Getting this drum formed and solving the annular ring problem was huge for me. Ttuhat hatchway is the only opening into the turret other than the entrance under the rear of the gun house. I hope to be able to do mine this way also. ![]() Notice that this is where the roller bearing and gear rack gets mounted. The fingered extensions at the cut off portion are the weld points to tie the turret into the ship’s structure. Here’s Jim Slade’s rendition of this barrel (straight and tapered portions) that he created from the actual ship’s drawings. The other two turrets have some room between the turret cylinders and the ship’s armor belts. There are no powder magazines flanking #1 turret because of this narrowness. Only on turret #1 is this angle cut made as the ship is already narrowing at this point. It is also cut on a bias at the bottom where the entire stucture is welded into the ship’s framing. It is the outer shell for both the powder flat and the lowest projectile flat. I already printed out the patterns for these cylindrical shapes. And massage i definitely will have to do if past experience is a prolog to future experience. I don’t want fancy paint and detail parts in the way as I massage all this stuff to fit. Reason? There are some critical fits to the inner structures and the round outer decking that must bridge the gaps between the inner and our barrels. I decided to hold off in detail painting until I get further along with these outer barrels. ![]() Very short session today, and I woke up thinking about how to make the outer cylinders and the barbette. I did finally get all the masking done of the projectile decks including the three spots on each where the hoists will be glued. I had a physically therapy appointment at 4:00 to work on my sciatica. I had to sand off the old Bondic and re-attach the piece. One of the rear compartment prints had the spanning tray break off…AGAIN! This piece had a very thin weak spot as the tray joins into the cradle at the faux hinge. Some of the components, which I thought were fully done, were “almost fully done” and required some additional cleanup. The next frustration kept occurring as I was adding pieces to the painting board. I think I’m just going to scratch build some spacers to close the gap. ![]() They were tough enough to get right the first time. I really don’t want to print another deck, nor do I want to mess with the drawing and print another set of three hoists. So now the lower deck’s hoists fit perfectly as shown above, but the upper hoists are anout 1/8" too short. The two walls were intentionally different. In other words, I had forgotten that I had alredy accounted for this difference when printing them originally. Due to the large boss hanging down from the electric deck, the upper projectile flat wall height was shorter than the lower projectile’s deck. Then I found out why the two walls were different heights in the first place.
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